The Sutton Blouse: Numbers Two and Three

Hooray for multiples! Right? You guys like seeing multiples right? I really wanted to make the coloured blocked version of this blouse, and while I was cutting it out, I thought, why not make a second print one too. And so I did. (Both these blouses are made with the Tester version of the pattern - Kelli has since removed about an inch of width wise ease - so keep that in mind - again.) I made a straight size 8 again. Let's start with the printed version. I made this one with a gorgeous floral crepe from Blackbird Fabrics.

Speaking of which, have you checked out Caroline's new shop? I was so excited when she announced the opening, that I jumped on my computer and ordered a bunch of fabric from her. We don't have a ton of great online fabric shops in Canada (and finding apparel fabric in Calgary is a huge challenge), and it costs a small fortune for shipping from the US, plus you sometimes have to pay duty and customs fees on top of that. Yikes! So needless to say I was thrilled to have somewhere to shop in country and I wanted to be sure to show my support. Caroline really knows her stuff, and she has a great selection of apparel fabrics.

This crepe was really lovely to work with, and it feels really nice against the skin. I think I must have stretched the neckline out a little while sewing, because it lays a little wonky at times. I didn't really notice until I saw it in pictures, but it tends to lie a bit weird. Oh well!

I am really loving this blouse. It's so easy to throw on with jeans, and it's nicer than a plain old t-shirt. It also goes really nice with a big chunky cardigan over top, and I'm wondering how it might look over top of something long-sleeved, but I haven't tried it yet. I love how it's loose but also how it curves in at the sides to flatter my shape. And I am totally digging the length of the kimono sleeves.

Okay, onto the colour-blocked version.

This is probably my favourite one to wear (can you tell? Why do I look so unimpressed?), but it was definitely the most difficult to sew (ohhhhhh...). It has nothing to do with the pattern, and everything to do with the fabric.

The solid navy fabric is a gorgeous Rayon Challis from Fabric.com. It is actually amazing; super soft and flowy and almost a bit brushed looking. I want to order yards and yards of it in every colour. The colourful sailboat fabric, which was a huge pain to work with, is a crepe de chine from Girl Charlee. Why do you always lure me in with your gorgeous prints Girl Charlee, why?!?!  I love the colours and the print is adorable,  but it was super slippery and crazy difficult to cut, and to be honest it's really thin and feels quite - dare I say it - cheap. It looks really lovely though, and it has the perfect drape for this blouse.

I am not sure if you can see it very clearly, but there is a seam in the middle of the yoke that should not be there. I made a huge mistake with this one. Somehow I twisted the yoke (after I had completed the gorgeous neckline) while I was seaming the front. I was so happy with how my french seams turned out until I noticed my mistake. This fabric is way too delicate (and it had already been fraying like crazy) so I didn't think it would survive unpicking. That left me with two choices: a) toss it and start over, or  b) cut the yoke in half. I went with option b.  Unfortunately, the seam isn't dead centre, but I can live with it, and it's totally not going to stop me from wearing it.

I love how this blouse looks with a contrasting yoke. I think there are a lot of colour-blocking opportunities with this pattern. I have visions of a printed yoke with a solid body, or even making each front side a different colour (would that be too 80s?). I am also starting to wonder how it might work in a lightweight knit. It would have to be drape-y but I think it would look really great. I think that's one of the things I love most about sewing, you can take a pattern and really make it your own based on your colour and fabric choices. I love that I can make something, and no one else will ever have the same thing.

Anyway, I am off to do some christmas sewing. I'm actually sewing for someone else, can you believe it? I'm really excited about giving some handmade gifts this year - so keep your fingers crossed for me that they all turn out.

Are you sewing/making any gifts this year? Have you started yet?

The Sutton Blouse

Have you guys seen the gorgeous new pattern by True Bias? I actually got to be a pattern tester for it. I have never been a pattern tester before and I was absolutely thrilled when Kelli asked me. I was so flattered that she had confidence in my sewing ability, but also because she was interested in my opinion. Because I love her first pattern the Hudson Pant, so much, I already knew that I would pounce on any subsequent designs she released, so getting it for free in exchange for feedback was such a bonus! I mean I was gonna sew it up and blog about it anyways.

First, let's talk about the pattern itself. This is a 19 page pdf pattern and it went together very easily and really quickly. I had no problems lining up the marks and I used a glue stick to put it together. The pattern is beautifully drafted, and all the markings match up perfectly. The instructions are very detailed and easy to follow, and they contain definitions of techniques and diagrams (I am a visual learner, so I love a good diagram). This pattern is rated intermediate because it calls for more slippery fabrics, but I really think that if you are an experienced beginner and you took your time, you would have no problem. I think sewing with a rayon challis or a voile would make it a touch easier, than starting off with something like chiffon or silk.

I made a straight size 8. Based on my measurements, I should have made a size 10, but as this top was described as loose fitting, I chose to make a size 8. Since the testing process, Kelli has actually removed some of the ease out of the width (an inch to be exact), so keep that in mind when you are looking at my photos and choosing your own size. When I first saw photos of this pattern, I loved how it looked on Kelli, but I wasn't sure if it was going to work on my shape. It's a little bit loose and boxy, and I haven't had a lot of luck with those types of tops. But I am always up for trying new things out and I was pleasantly surprised with how much it actually flatters my shape. I think it skims over all the right places while still maintaining a nice shape.

Full disclosure, this was my first time working with a slippery fabric, and also my first time with french seams. With that in mind, I think it turned out really well.  I think the trickiest part was actually cutting the blouse out. The fabric shifts and moves which can cause problems, but I think it worked out okay for me. The french seams turned out really nicely too and is the perfect way to finish a delicate fabric. I love how the inside looks, so professional.

This fabric is a flowy crepe by Moda. When I saw this print on Fabric.com, I had to have it, and I bought it with this top in mind.

I think my favourite part about this blouse is the neckline. It is exactly the right length, and in my opinion hits at exactly the right spot, plus Kelli has an awesome technique to finish it. I love how it turned out.

I am also totally digging the high low hem and the side slits. This top is a perfect wardrobe staple in my books, as it works really well with skinny jeans, but can also be dressed up with skirts. I think it would also work with leggings as it has enough butt coverage. But I guess that depends on where you stand on the whole leggings as pants debate. I think it would be totally office appropriate with a skirt or trousers, and it makes you feel a bit more put together than just a regular old t-shrit when paired with jeans. I made this top before we went to London and it packed really well. I didn't have to iron it, and it was super easy to through on.

Kelli has such a great style and it really shows in her pattern designs. I really love that she has taken the time to put together really detailed instructions with diagrams, and I happen to know that if you were ever stuck, you could email her and she would happily help you figure out anything that might trip you up.

So all and all, I really have nothing but love for this pattern. In fact, I love it so much that I have already made up two more which I will share with you later this week. What can I say, I love multiples.

Radar Love

A few weeks ago when Miss Crayola Creepy announced her Cat Lady Sewing Challenge, I kind of brushed it off as I am not really a cat person. It's not that I have anything against cats, in fact, if anything, I really don't know much about them. I've never owned a cat and my only real experience with them, are having them either ignore me, bite me or stratch me. And I think it's pretty obvious by now that given the choice I am a die hard dog lover, and in particular a die hard pug lover. So sewing a garment covered in cats seemed almost hypocritical (I know, I know, I'm a bit weird). But then I was browsing Fabric.com as I often do, and I decided, just for fun of course, to search "cats". When I came upon this crazy, halloweenish cat print, I knew I had to have it:

It reminded me almost instantly, that there actually is a cat that I love. A cat that I would happily pay homage to by participating in a Cat Lady Sewing Challenge. An adorable feline that I have had a number of good experiences with, and even a few cuddles: Radar.

About a year ago, Anne (my favourite stepmom) lost her long-time kitty companion Ming. Ming was a beautiful and elegant, shy siamese cat that was a constant companion to Anne for about 16 years (why can't pets live forever??). After Ming passed, my Mom and Anne weren't sure if they would get another cat; they thought they might be okay with living in a one cat household (my Mom also has a feline fur baby named Minou) but after a few weeks, Anne decided that two is always better than one. So it was off to the rescue foundation they went, where they fell in love with this adorable black beauty. He's around 7 years old, but he looks and acts like he is a much younger kitty.

I have only met Radar a handful of times, but every time I see him, he comes right up to me and gives me lots of cuddles and lovins. He is the first cat that has really made me consider the possibility of having one as a pet someday. He is the one black cat that I don't mind crossing my path. He is soft and sweet, he lets me pet him and (GASP!) he even trusts me enough to fall asleep in my lap - I mean, what's not to love about that? I have heard though, that he is constantly up to mischief; he loves to knock things off counter tops, to mess with Minou, to hide in the rafters, and to open screen doors to try to make his escape (classic cat stuff).

Anyway, when I saw this fabric - I immediately thought of Radar. (Anne named him Radar because he has big ears that stand straight up, it's very fitting actually.) Plus, I thought it would make an excellent October/Halloween shirt. So after a series of clicks, it was in my cart and on its way to my house - it costs a fortune for shipping to Canada, but Fabric.com always ships super quickly so it at least feels a bit worth it. Naturally, as I am still in the midst of my mad love affair/finding the perfect fit obsession with Archer, that's what I chose to make...again.  Surprise, surprise! (I promise I will sew something else someday.) Quilting cotton is probably a little heavy for a shirt, but I think it turned out really well and it was super easy to work with.

I actually did a few different things with this one. I went down another size, so this one is actually a size 6. And again I did a full bust adjustment (for reference, I slashed and spread about 1 inch). I am super happy with the fit on this one. I think it is safe to say, that this is definitely the TNT version for me now.

I decided to make the pockets pointy on this one as it seemed to go with the theme. It's a bit tough to see as this fabric is so busy, but the pockets really are there.

I also decided to try a different sleeve placket this time, and I love it!! When I first looked at the tutorial, it looked super complicated, but take it from me, it is actually super easy. I would venture to say easier than the normal sleeve placket. There are more steps but I found the actual sewing part to be easier - no weird rippling or stretching of cut fabric. The tutorial I followed is here. I think I will do all my sleeve plackets like this from now on. I love that it allows one to show off a contrasting fabric, if one wants should desire to do such a thing. It really is all about the little things for me.

There, you can see those pointy pocket in this picture. I used leftover scraps from my second Washi dress, and I think it worked out really well. I also used that same fabric for the inside collar stand and yoke.

I also went with snaps again (they really are my favourite closure), yellow pearl snaps to be specific,  and I love how they turned out. A little pop of colour to a monochrome fabric is perfect in my books. I thought the yellow was quite fitting, as Radar's eyes are a greeny, yellow. I don't seem to have a photo of it, but I finished the hem with purple bias tape (my new favourite hemming technique), and I used my variegated rainbow serger thread to finish my seams, so this shirt looks just as cool on the inside as it does on the outside.

So there you have it, I have officially embraced my inner crazy cat lady. I'd like to tell you that I will probably reserve wearing this shirt for October and close to Halloween, but I love it so much, I'm sure it will get into the regular rotation.

Do you like cats? Enough to sew and/or wear cat themed clothes?

PS: I am now in London - so look as I originally started out as a travel blogger, look forward to some travel posts and fabric shopping! Phew, finally a break from all the Archer madness. LOL

My Mom's Happy Birthday Archer

My Mom's birthday is coming up at the end of October, and I really wanted to make her something awesome. I took her basic measurements back in June in anticipation of wanting to make her something someday, and I was pretty confident that I would be able to make her a well fitting knit top of some sort. But then I fell in love with Archer, and I knew she would love to have one too (she made a huge fuss over my first one). I was a little nervous, because Archer requires a bit of fitting and I wanted it to be a surprise so I didn't want to have her try it on before hand. So a bit risky, but I figured worst case scenario, it would fit horribly and then I could just make her another one. It's just fabric, they will always be more. [I used to work as a dental assistant and I remember the dentist that I worked for (who was a really good guy btw) used to say, the great thing about being a dentist is that it's just teeth, at the end of the day, nobody dies - so much better than being a doctor. So at the end of the day it's just fabric, the world won't end if it doesn't work out. Okay, I'm getting off the soapbox now.) But lucky for me (and her), it fit!

Now, wait a minute...if my Mom's birthday isn't until the end of October, why is she wearing her Birthday Shirt now? Well John and I are going to be in London on her actual birthday and I was so excited to give her this gift; I gave it to her over Thanksgiving when we were together. She was thrilled with it, and was kind enough to pose for some blog photos. Isn't she cute?

For this baby, I made a straight size 18. I picked the size based on the my Mom's bust and hip size. I shortened the sleeves by about 2", but she probably need them a bit shorter still. I inherited my petite-ness from her as you can see.

This gorgeous blue floral cotton screams my Mom. I had planned to make a sleeveless shirt for myself with it, but when I was looking through the stash for something to use for my Mom, John and I both knew she would love it (he's my design consultant). Plus it washes and wears really well. This gem was part of my Goldhawk Road haul last Spring. I also used scraps leftover from my second Archer for the inside yoke, inner collar stand and the sleeve plackets. Have I mentioned that I love all the little details that sewing your own garments allows you to add?

As you can see the fit is not perfect, and if (when) I make her another one, I will make some adjustments to make it fit better. She could use smaller shoulders and an FBA (I'm getting better at those), and the sleeves are a bit too long too. I love that I am starting to recognize fit issues more easily and also that I have some idea of how to fix them. If you can't tell from her grin, my Mom is super happy with this shirt. It was funny while I was taking photos of my Mom, I was like come on Mom work it, and she did all the same silly poses that I do, when John takes photos of me. It was pretty funny (I'll save my Mom and not post all the crazy shots). Like mother like daughter I suppose.

It's hard to see because of the busy fabric, but I actually used pearl snaps for the closures on this shirt. I was shakey and sweaty setting them, because of my Nettie experience, but by the time I set the last 3, I felt like I knew what I was doing. And I am so glad that I took a chance and tried again, because the snaps look so good! Here's a photo I posted on Instagram that I think shows them a little bit better.

I love the pearl snaps, they look so nice. I ordered them from Snap Source (which I heard/read about from A Fashionable Stitch - Sunni has a wealth of information on her blog, seriously (yay sewing community!), which I never would have discovered without the Sewing Affair podcast - so Hooray for Corinne too!). I actually ended up getting their tool for setting to, and it works really well. Once you set two or three, it's pretty easy, plus if you have a small flat screwdriver (coincidentally like the one that comes with your sewing machine) you can carefully remove any snap mistakes without too much fabric damage, and re-set. So yay for snaps!

So there you go, that's my unselfish sewing for the year LOL. Seriously, it's so nice to make something for someone, and have them love it. My Mom wore this shirt for 2 days straight (she and Anne were visiting us in BC for the Thanksgiving weekend, so I know what she was up to).

Do you make things for other people? How do you go about keeping it a surprise, or do you?

Happy Birthday Mom! I love you bunches!

The Nettie Chardon Conglomerate

Get ready for a pretty picture heavy post guys! I thought I would give the blog an Archer break and share something a little different. Well different for me anyway. The Deer & Doe Chardon skirt and the lovely (what will I ever wear that with, but now I can't live without) Closet Case Nettie!

I say a little different because I hardly ever wear skirts (and I have never worn a bodysuit). I'm not sure why I don't really wear skirts, as they seem like a pretty versatile item, but for some reason, I have always thought that they don't really suit me. That being said, I really like this one! I think the highwaisted-ness suits my petite frame and I love the pleats and belt loops too! Plus it has pockets - woo hoo!

Hey look, I still have pink in my hair!

I've seen a bunch of Nettie/skirt combos popping up online and I thought that a Nettie paired with this skirt would be perfect! I wouldn't have to worry about always tucking in, or that my top was riding up and/or becoming untucked and I think it worked out splendidly.

For the Chardon, I used Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen Blend (say that three times fast) from Fabric.com. I think it has the right amount of drape and body and it holds the pleats well. I made a size 44 and I used the length of version A without the contrasting piece - what can I say, I'm short. I used store bought bias tape for the hem and I love how that worked out too. I'm all about the bias tape hems lately.

For Nettie I used a striped cotton jersey from Girl Charlee, and I made the version with 3/4 length sleeves in a size twelve. I ended up shortening the bodice by about 1.5" and I did a small sway back adjustment as well. The leg bindings are supposed to be finished with self fabric, but I decided to do something a little different, and I finished them with lingerie elastic. I have never applied lingerie elastic, but I think it turned out pretty well. This pretty pink came from Sew Sassy, and it's super soft and not pinchy at all.

I first attached it with a zig zag stitch and then used my coverstitch machine to topstitch it in place.

This is the first project I have ever made that involved snaps. And I was a little naive about it. I thought, how hard can it be really? Well...here's what it looked like on my muslin.

Snap fail!! (If you follow me on Instagram, you would have seen this already, with the caption Nailed it! My husband didn't understand the reference until I pointed him here. We had a really good giggle, and it still makes me laugh whenever I think about it).

I think my first mistake was using a scrap of jersey for the gusset. In my experience so far, setting snaps in jersey and having them look good is really, really hard! I think my second mistake was trying to set them through so many layers of fabric. After doing this, I re-read the pattern instructions and discovered that you are supposed to a) use a woven scrap of fabric, and b) set the snaps through one layer of fabric, then fold it over and stitch. My second try turned out so much better! When it comes to sewing, I tend to be one of those people that refuses to be discouraged by fails. I think you learn so much from your mistakes and I was so determined to master snaps, that I just kept trying. I have a couple more projects to share that involve snaps and I am so happy that I just kept on trying, because the effort really paid off.

Here's a look at my second attempt:

Hallelujah! Not perfect, but much, much better. You are supposed to slip stitch, but I am way too impatient for hand sewing, and no one's going to see this but me, so I just machine stitched as well as I could around the snaps. It works. My cover stitching looks pretty messy too, but in sewing, it's not what's happening on the inside that counts, it's how in looks on the outside that's most important. Right?

Anyway, I was a little bit worried about what I would wear Nettie with, but I think she goes perfectly with skirts and will be a great layering piece during the colder months. She could be worn under cardigans, sweaters, Archers and perhaps even under an Alder Shirtdress. (Btw: Did you hear that Grainline is releasing a new sweatshirt pattern on Monday?? Eeeeee!) I am a little bit confused about how to wear this bad boy when tights are involved though. Do the tights go over or under Nettie? But I'll figure it out I'm sure, it's probably wearer's choice LOL.

What have you been up to lately? Have you had any epic fails (sewing or otherwise)? Did it discourage you or were you like me and even more determined to conquer the task?

PS: Happy Thanksgiving to all my Canadian peeps!! Hope you get lots of yummy turkey and remember all the wonderful things to be grateful for!

Archer #2 and Some Fitting Chat

Well, Hi Everybody! I feel like I haven't blogged in forever, but really it's only been about a week and a half. If you follow me on Instagram (and I may have mentioned it here), you might know that I have been struggling with some kind of tendonitis/repetitive stress injury in my right arm.  It's been a pain (literally) and it's really cutting into my sewing/blogging/knitting. I have found that sewing itself isn't too bad, but cutting things out, ironing/pressing, and knitting really aggravate it, and typing and using the trackpad on my laptop are pretty awful too. So I've been trying to rest it as much as I can, which means more Netflix (I'm currently hooked on the X-Files and Scandal) and dreaming about sewing, with way less actual sewing. I have yet to see a professional about it, but if it continues, I will. John says, my big problem is that I don't understand the concept of moderation, and you know what? He's probably right. I would sew all day everyday if I could (and I'd eat pizza, drink lattes, and down ice cream all day too!). Anyway, enough about that. Let's talk about Archer #2. Have I told you how much I love this pattern yet. I love a good button-up shirt and this bad boy fits the bill! I realized after I made my first plaid Archer, that it's all I want to wear. A button up with jeans is the perfect fall  (and everyday) outfit as far as I'm concerned.

Yes, I have officially accepted that it is fall and pulled out the boots!

A couple of weeks ago, I asked you lovely readers for some fitting help. Do you remember? It was about my Scout, and I received lots of very helpful advice in the comments. One lovely lady, Lisa from Notes From A Mad Housewife, suggested that I add a dart and do a Full Bust Adjustment. As someone relatively new to garment sewing, I had heard of FBAs, but never really knew how to figure out if I needed one, let alone how to do one. What really confused me, and Lisa helped clear up, was: once you figure out that you need an FBA, how do you choose the correct size pattern on which to preform said adjustment? Lisa described in the comments, that you choose your size based on your high bust (or upper bust) measurement. Well, this was definitely news to me, and then I did some reading in my go to fitting book, Fit for Real People, and it was right there - choose your pattern size based on your upper bust measurement, and adjust from there. How on earth did I miss this? So really what you try to do, is get a garment to fit you well in the shoulders and adjust the pattern to fit you everywhere else. Hello, light bulb moment!

Note: Most commercial patterns are drafted for a B-cup (most, but not all), so essentially, if you are bigger than a B-cup, you need a Full Bust Adjustment. I had heard the part about most patterns being drafted for a B-cup, but what I didn't understand was how that affected pattern sizing. I mean if you choose a pattern based on your bust measurement, shouldn't it fit? Well, if the the cup size isn't the right size, there just won't be enough room for your jugs. Make sense? The same is true if you are smaller than a B-cup. Then you would need to do a Small Bust Adjustment as there would be too much space for your jugs.

Anyway, a day or so after this epiphany, I was listening to the Sewing Affair podcast (have you listened to it yet? It is awesome! Corinne is a fantastic host, and she's had a bunch of lovely guests. I love geeking out and listening to sewing talk! And I learn stuff too!), and Sunni from A Fashionable Stitch was on. Of course after hearing about her shop and her blog, I had to go and check her out. On her site, I stumbled upon her Focus on Fit series, where she too talked about choosing your pattern size based on your high bust measurement. Okay universe, I get the message!

So to make a long story even longer, I used my Fit For Real People book, after reading several posts about it on the internet, to do an FBA. I used a size 8 as my base and then did an FBA which added a dart. I did find a couple of posts online about dartless FBAs, and I may try that too, but I really don't mind the look of darts, so I went traditional on this bad boy.

Really, you can hardly see the darts. This fabric is a tencel chambray from Fabric.com and it was lovely to work with. I love the colour and it drapes quite nicely too. At the last minute I decided to put my contrasting yoke on the outside, and I was too lazy to unpick everything, so the pleat is the opposite way that it should be, but I still like it. The polka dot fabric is leftover from my Juba Shorts and it's from Denver Fabrics.

Now, looking at these photos, I think I  could probably use a sway back adjustment to get the back fitting better. Sometimes I get so focused on the front, that I forget about the parts that I can't see.

The only other alteration I did to this version was to shorten the sleeves by 2.5''. I think that they are pretty much perfect now. I often roll my sleeves up anyway, but I like this length. I used Andrea's collar assembly tutorial again, and I really think it's the best way to do a collar. And I also used Rochelle's tutorial (speaking of which, why did it take me so long to find her blog? - it's so awesome and she has Archer fever too!) on bias binding the hem and I really like the finish of that too, unfortunately I didn't take a picture so you'll just have to trust me.

So, I'm sorry for the long post, but I'm excited and I really wanted to share what I have discovered. Maybe you're a fitting newb like me (and you don't read well, or are notorious for skimming books) and you are out there wondering where to start to make your garments fit better.

All in all, I am really happy with the fit of this Archer, it fits similar to my plaid one, but on purpose this time (I didn't shrink it in the dryer).  I think for a more fitted shirt, I could even go down to a size 6, something I would have never have imagined (or thought to try) in a million years. I am really enjoying the learning process of fitting, and now that I have this knowledge I look forward to making better fitting tops (and learning more of course), which was the whole reason I started this crazy hobby! Well that, and I love to sew.

One more thing, Maris, over at Sew Maris is just starting an Archer Sewalong on Monday, and I have learned a ton already from her prep for the sewalong posts, so if you are interested in sewing a button up shirt (or any garment really), her blog is definitely worth checking out.

Hope you are having a nice weekend! Happy Sewing! (Or whatever it is you are up to).

The Epic Plaid Shirt

Back when I was around 14 years old, the grunge scene had hit hard, and I longed for life in Seattle with Doc Marten boots, Bridget Fonda and Matt Dillion for neighbours, cool coffee and a Paul Westerberg soundtrack (of course that was completely unrealistic as I was only 14 at the time, but hey a girl can watch Singles and dream right?). I was always on the hunt for the perfect plaid  flannel shirt. Not to wear of course, but to tie around my waist as all the cool kids did. My best friend at time, let's call her Anni, and I searched thrift shops and Value Village for old worn in (Men's) jeans, cool concert tees, cords and ironic Bill Cosby sweaters. We managed to put together some grunge worthy outfits, but neither one of us could find that epic plaid shirt.

Then one morning before school, Anni had a brilliant idea: she would raid her dad's closet. Anni's dad was very strict and very "old country", but for some reason she decided that wearing his clothes would be a good idea. I was so incredibly jealous. Not only did Anni's dad have a huge collection of perfect plaid flannels - they all fit her - perfectly oversized for her frame. You see Anni's Dad was quite slender and how should I put it: wiry. So with a cool belt, she could totally pull of his faded old straight-leg jeans, add a t-shirt and a flannel around her waist and she was set. I guess the only catch was she had to race home from school and make sure she put everything back in his closet or in the laundry before he came home from work. I think she even had a spare outfit in her backpack in case he came home early one day. At the time, I guess I didn't find this that strange, but hello how scary was her dad? But I digress...the point of the story is, I was always jealous of her cool plaid shirts and how she always looked amazing in them. So of course, when I saw this cool buffalo check at Fabricland, I was transported back to the days of Kurt Cobain and Eddie Vedder, teenage angst and slacker fashion, so I knew it was destined to be an Archer.

This is my first attempt at plaid matching, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I used Jen's tutorial and it worked really well. I also cut my pockets, yoke, and button band on the bias, because I thought that would break up things up a little and make it a little more feminine.

This is my very first Archer and a very wearable muslin. I decided to just go for it and cut into this buffalo check straight away. I figured that worst case scenario, it would be too big, but it would be comfy and I would wear it anyway. Also, I got this fabric for pretty cheap at Fabricland and I knew there was lots more there if I needed it. I didn't really use the written instructions that came with the pattern, but instead referred to Grainline's fabulous Archer Sewalong. I am a very visual person, so having those extra photos helped a ton! I also used Andrea's new order to sew a collar tutorial over on her blog Four Square Walls. It  makes the collar process so much easier, and the end result looks awesome!

I chose a size 12 and made it up as is. I have to tell you that when I first tried this shirt on, I was not incredibly happy with the fit. It wasn't awful, but it was pretty big all over and the sleeves were super long. I also discovered that flannel is actually code for loose thread and pug hair magnet (look closely at these photos and you'll see what I mean). So once this shirt was totally finished, instead of wearing it or photographing it right away for the blog, I threw it back in the wash. I always pre-wash and dry my fabric at hot temperatures to make sure there are no surprises later on, and this flannel was no exception. So a couple of days later (today) when I put this shirt back on, I was shocked to find that it now fits pretty much perfectly!

Source

It shrunk to perfection. I can't believe it! The sewing gods were with me on this one. From now on,  I think I'll probably wash all my flannels twice because I would have been super disappointed if this shirt had fit perfectly to begin with. But this time, it worked out well - so hooray!

Size and shrinkage aside, I have to say that I absolutely love this pattern, and I can now see what all the fuss is about. It's fabulous and I see many more Archers in my future. A girl can't have too many button-downs, can she? (Button-downs? Button-ups?)

Do you ever get that way with a pattern? Love it so much that you just want to make it up a bunch of times. I fall in love all the time, and then I think, I'll be the girl in the woven t-shirts, or I'll be the girl in the fit and flare dresses, or I'll be the girl in the funky leggings...I'll have a uniform and that's what I'll be known for. But then I make another pattern and it changes. I think maybe there's a term for that, could it be OCD? Anyway, one thing is for sure, I am all about Grainline Studios right now, and I am beginning to obsess over fit so look forward to reading more about that. ;)

I think this marks the first of my Fall sewing projects. I never actually wrote a post about all the fall sewing I am planning or that I am going along with Sarah's Annual Fall Essentials Sewalong - but I am! I am very reluctant to post my list as it changes from day to day, but you know me, I like to mix it up.

Anyway, hope you all are enjoying the changing leaves, the crisp air, and the pumpkin spice lattes! (Confession: I hate pumpkin spice lattes - I tried to force myself to like them to find in, but yuck!). Happy Fall!

I Get By With A Little (Fitting) Help from My Friends

Yes, yes...the amazing blog post titles continue! So it's seems to be all about Grainline Studio patterns up in here lately, and prepare yourself because I am sure there will be more to come (ahem..Archer..ahem...cough). Here is my latest finished object, Scout (complete with goofy grin):

I've made a few of these before. In fact, a Scout was pretty much the first real garment I ever made. I screwed up the first one while inserting the sleeves (I cut into the bodice with my serger), then I made another one which came out perfectly sewing wise, but it was 2 or 3 sizes to big for me. Finally I made one that fits okay. I still have it, and I wear it occasionally, but it's definitely not my finest work, and the fabric is an iffy polyester from Fabricland (but it has little horses on it, so you win some, you lose some). And now I have this one, and I really like it.

I wanted to use a more flowy fabric, and this floral rayon challis from Fabric.com worked perfectly. I also would have really liked to do leather sleeves, but I'm way too intimidated by sewing leather, so I settled on a plain black cotton. I had some scraps in my stash from something I made (but I can't remember what) so I think that this little baby qualifies for Sewcialist's Scraptember. (Yay!! I finally made something for a Sewcialist theme!) I also added a pocket to this version to tie everything together. I used the pocket piece from Grainline's Tiny Pocket Tank.

So just in case you are a wondering, this is a straight size 10. If I chose the correct size based on my measurements, I would be a 14 maybe graded down to a 12 at the hips. That was the combo size I made my first couple times out and it was way too big. I get that this is supposed to be kind of swingy, but I don't think it's supposed to be huge all over. Is it? This is where the help from my friends comes in (ahhh, yes. now you get the title). Based on where the shoulder hits me on this one, I think I could even go down to an 8. What do you think? I feel like the ones I have seen around the blogosphere are more fitted - at least at the shoulder. Maybe Jen just designs everything oversized (I have a feeling my Archer is going to be on the big size too).

I am still a beginner at fitting (and sewing really), and sometimes I can figure it out, but sometimes I can't. The pugs try to help, but I have a hard time understanding their barks when it comes to fitting - when it comes to food that's a totally different story. Unfortunately, I don't have any sewing buddies near by, so I have to rely on my blog and instagram for your guys' helpful hints and tips. I also consult my myriad of fitting books, but they can't see/listen to me and see what I'm talking about. That's the frustrating part. If only I could find some sort of bewitched Harry Potter sewing book.

I still really  like this one, despite any size issues, and I see myself wearing it quite a bit. You can never have enough tees right? I have plans to make another one in chambray, because I cannot get enough of chambray, and I want to use it as an excuse to practice topstitching and maybe do some cool contrast stitching, but I'd like to get the fit a bit better. Cause isn't that the point of making your own clothes - having them fit well?

Anyway, enough babbling. Hope you all are having lots of fun September adventures,, and that the weather hasn't turned too chilly yet.

Oh almost forgot, here's you gratuitous pug pic. Doesn't she look super impressed? She hadn't had her morning coffee yet.