Handmade Christmas Part 2: Dude Sewing

So I have fallen super behind in blogland. I contracted the plague and spent close to 5 days cuddled up in bed with the pugs and Netflix. I wouldn't say it's the worst cold I've ever had, but it is definitely the most persistent (and I'm a huge baby). I thought I would spend 2 days in bed and feel better, but I actually felt worse after the first two days and decided to spend a couple more days in bed. Yuck! Anyway, I have just finished catching up on reading everything in my feed, so now it's time to update. I really want to do a year-end post, but first I wanted to share the rest of my handmade Christmas gifts with you. First off, the shirts I made for the boys:

Don't they look handsome? I had so much fun making these shirts. John and I picked out the fabric last spring on Goldhawk Road. The boys love to have matching shirts for some reason, and when we saw this map fabric we both thought it would be perfect. I used McCall's 6044 and I made them all the same size. Matt's could stand to be size smaller, but otherwise I am super happy with the fit right out of the envelope. The boys were thrilled to, and impressed that I actually made them. I'm thinking it may end up being a bit of a tradition!

Next up, I made a shirt for my Dad:

For this shirt, I used Jalie's Men's Polo Shirt pattern, and I opted for a collared long sleeve version with no pockets. I have never made a collar or button placket in jersey, and I have to say, it was difficult. I unpicked the button placket twice, and to be honest, I'm still not thrilled with it. The fabric is a super soft, and super stretchy cotton lycra from Girl Charlee. It's really nice and the colour is gorgeous, but it was tough to work with for this type of project. Next time, I will interface all the placket and collar pieces which I really think would help. Anyway, my Dad is thrilled with it, and has worn it a ton already.

Next up I thought I would show you the shirts I made for our little Shanny. They weren't really for Christmas, but I think they go along with the unselfish sewing theme I have going here. Shanny had to have a couple of lumps removed from her chest/neck, and the best way to keep her from scratching at the stitches was to have her wear a little shirt. The first one I made her fit pretty well, but it didn't come up far enough, so I had to make her a second one.

Both shirts are made from super soft jersey remnants that I bought from Girl Charlee. I have no idea why I bought them, but I thought they worked really well for this project. Both shirts sewed up super quick and they did their job, plus Shanny really doesn't mind wearing them. I am also happy to report, that while one of the lumps was cancerous, they got it and she is now cancer free. Hooray!

That's pretty much it for the Christmas sewing. I made my Mom a Linden Sweatshirt too, but I somehow didn't get any pictures of it.

How is your holiday season going?

The Nettie Chardon Conglomerate

Get ready for a pretty picture heavy post guys! I thought I would give the blog an Archer break and share something a little different. Well different for me anyway. The Deer & Doe Chardon skirt and the lovely (what will I ever wear that with, but now I can't live without) Closet Case Nettie!

I say a little different because I hardly ever wear skirts (and I have never worn a bodysuit). I'm not sure why I don't really wear skirts, as they seem like a pretty versatile item, but for some reason, I have always thought that they don't really suit me. That being said, I really like this one! I think the highwaisted-ness suits my petite frame and I love the pleats and belt loops too! Plus it has pockets - woo hoo!

Hey look, I still have pink in my hair!

I've seen a bunch of Nettie/skirt combos popping up online and I thought that a Nettie paired with this skirt would be perfect! I wouldn't have to worry about always tucking in, or that my top was riding up and/or becoming untucked and I think it worked out splendidly.

For the Chardon, I used Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen Blend (say that three times fast) from Fabric.com. I think it has the right amount of drape and body and it holds the pleats well. I made a size 44 and I used the length of version A without the contrasting piece - what can I say, I'm short. I used store bought bias tape for the hem and I love how that worked out too. I'm all about the bias tape hems lately.

For Nettie I used a striped cotton jersey from Girl Charlee, and I made the version with 3/4 length sleeves in a size twelve. I ended up shortening the bodice by about 1.5" and I did a small sway back adjustment as well. The leg bindings are supposed to be finished with self fabric, but I decided to do something a little different, and I finished them with lingerie elastic. I have never applied lingerie elastic, but I think it turned out pretty well. This pretty pink came from Sew Sassy, and it's super soft and not pinchy at all.

I first attached it with a zig zag stitch and then used my coverstitch machine to topstitch it in place.

This is the first project I have ever made that involved snaps. And I was a little naive about it. I thought, how hard can it be really? Well...here's what it looked like on my muslin.

Snap fail!! (If you follow me on Instagram, you would have seen this already, with the caption Nailed it! My husband didn't understand the reference until I pointed him here. We had a really good giggle, and it still makes me laugh whenever I think about it).

I think my first mistake was using a scrap of jersey for the gusset. In my experience so far, setting snaps in jersey and having them look good is really, really hard! I think my second mistake was trying to set them through so many layers of fabric. After doing this, I re-read the pattern instructions and discovered that you are supposed to a) use a woven scrap of fabric, and b) set the snaps through one layer of fabric, then fold it over and stitch. My second try turned out so much better! When it comes to sewing, I tend to be one of those people that refuses to be discouraged by fails. I think you learn so much from your mistakes and I was so determined to master snaps, that I just kept trying. I have a couple more projects to share that involve snaps and I am so happy that I just kept on trying, because the effort really paid off.

Here's a look at my second attempt:

Hallelujah! Not perfect, but much, much better. You are supposed to slip stitch, but I am way too impatient for hand sewing, and no one's going to see this but me, so I just machine stitched as well as I could around the snaps. It works. My cover stitching looks pretty messy too, but in sewing, it's not what's happening on the inside that counts, it's how in looks on the outside that's most important. Right?

Anyway, I was a little bit worried about what I would wear Nettie with, but I think she goes perfectly with skirts and will be a great layering piece during the colder months. She could be worn under cardigans, sweaters, Archers and perhaps even under an Alder Shirtdress. (Btw: Did you hear that Grainline is releasing a new sweatshirt pattern on Monday?? Eeeeee!) I am a little bit confused about how to wear this bad boy when tights are involved though. Do the tights go over or under Nettie? But I'll figure it out I'm sure, it's probably wearer's choice LOL.

What have you been up to lately? Have you had any epic fails (sewing or otherwise)? Did it discourage you or were you like me and even more determined to conquer the task?

PS: Happy Thanksgiving to all my Canadian peeps!! Hope you get lots of yummy turkey and remember all the wonderful things to be grateful for!

The Grainline Hemlock and Espresso Leggings

Have you ever had one of those days where you just feel blah? Well that was how I felt all day today. I woke up and my stomach felt yucky and my arms and hands really hurt. I've been having lots of trouble with them lately - too much sewing (and knitting and putting together pdf patterns) I guess. So I laid pretty low and didn't do much of anything. Lucky for me, my only boss is my husband and he's pretty lenient with me. So I spent most of the day surfin' the net, catching up on sewing blogs and watching Netflix (am I the only one who cried watching Leslie Knope and Ben Wyatt's wedding? I'm the biggest baby ever). I always end up feeling really guilty when I'm sick or if I spend the day doing nothing (there's always so much to do!), so I decided I should at least do some blogging.

I have wanted to make Grainline Studio's Hemlock tee for quite some time, and I finally got around to it yesterday. I was hoping for a nice boxy oversize tee to wear with leggings, and while that is what I got, I'm not sure it suits my figure. I think I might be a bit too breasty for it. Is that a thing? I can't complain too much as it's a free pattern and only one size. I actually really liked how it looked in the mirror, but I'm not loving it on me in these photos. The pattern is a free pdf, and it all goes together quite nicely. Instructions aren't included but Jen has a great tutorial on her website to go with it.

I decided to go with a colour-blocked version, and I'm happy with how it worked out. The blue fabric is from Girl Charlee. It's a tissue knit and it's super soft. I wasn't overly impressed with it when I first took it out of the box, but it grew on me. The grey is a lightweight knit I got from the guy in front of Sainsbury's at Walthamstow market in London (if you ever go to London, let me know and I'll tell you all about shopping at Walthamstow - it's great!). It is also incredibly soft.

Can you tell I took these photos myself? I balanced the camera on the retaining wall of our garden, so some of them are a bit off kilter. The leggings are of course the Espresso Leggings by Cake - my go to pattern for leggings. I love being able to make custom fit leggings for myself and it's a bonus that I can make them out of funky patterned fabric.  This is another fabric from Girl Charlee (I just can't seem to resist Girl Charlee, damn you adorable prints and great website!). I'm a bit of a sucker for galaxy prints, and while the crosses might be a bit much, they really spoke to my inner 90's grunge-rock teenager (what can I say, I'll always love Wayne's World, Pearl Jam, plaid shirts and doc martens - it's my curse).

Anyway, this fabric is nice and soft with fairly good stretch, but it's a little bit on the sheer side for leggings, and after wearing these guys for a few hours they started to bag out a bit (no recovery). Plus the colours have already started to fade after one washing, and I bet next time I wash them they'll pill. They were great for lounging around today though. I probably would have been better making a t-shirt out of this fabric, but hey, I play by my own rules.

Sweet pose right? I'm trying to show you the underarm seam - I'm a pattern matching genius, no? LOL. And it wouldn't be a legit blog post with out gratuitous pug shots, would it?

Both of these projects were super quick and easy. I used my serger to put them together, and because the leggings were made pre-coverstitch machine, they got the double-needle treatment, but the Hemlock got treated right and I was thrilled to have no tunnelling using a lighter weight knit in my new machine. Knit projects are great for instant gratification.

Oh and just in case you are wondering where my third pug is, she stayed in the house napping. She's not a big fan of the paparazzi.

How do you feel about one-size fits all patterns? Or one size garments for that matter? Have you tried the Hemlock tee?  Also have you planned your Fall sewing yet? Based on the crazy blizzard that's happening back home right now, I think I better get my but in gear and sew some warm stuff.

The Tale of the Plantain and the New Janome Coverstitch Machine

Yep, you read that right, I got a coverstitch machine! I had been contemplating one for awhile, and every time I sew with knits I think, what am I doing? I always struggle with my double-needle, I am never happy with how hems look with it (and sometimes they pop) and I always end up thinking that the garment would look so much better if I had the proper tool. After making all those t-shirts with ripply hems, I chatted with my amazingly wonderful and supportive husband, and he agreed that I needed to add this machine to my sweat shop and so off I went to the sewing store.

I had already picked out (read: fondled) this machine last time I was at the store, so I knew exactly what to buy. I have a soft spot in my heart for Janome. My first real sewing machine, John bought me back in 2007 was a Janome and it still runs like a top. My serger is also a Janome, and I love it too. (The regular sewing machine I use now is a super amazing Pfaff, the Creative Performance, and it does everything but the dishes. There now you know all my secrets.) I read a bit about coverstitch machines on the internet too, and was happy to discover that this baby got some good reviews. I ended up buying a clear foot, and a seam guide to go with it.

You might be asking yourself, what exactly is a coverstitch machine? Don't worry, I had no idea what it was either. I thought a serger could do what it does, and some combination serger-coverstitch machines can, but that's not what I have. Basically, a coverstitch machine hems knit garments with one or two needles. You can use it on wovens as well, but usually it's used on knits to create that stretchy hem. Take a look at the hem on a RTW t-shirt and you'll see what I am talking about.

Of course I was pretty anxious to make something with this bad boy, so I turned to the Deer & Doe Plantain. I've made about 3 Plantains so far (two are blogged here) and been really happy with them all. I had been dreaming of making one with contrast sleeves and a large pocket, so off I went. The coverstitch machine uses the same thread as my serger, so that's pretty handy. And it's really not difficult to thread. It only has one looper and then the needles - easy peasy.

I picked up some more serger thread while I was shopping and I just couldn't resist this rainbow variegated thread. It's so pretty, and I know that I will be the only one to see it, but it makes me happy. There's a secret rainbow party going on inside my shirt. LOL

I used the coverstitch machine to top stitch around the neckline and it worked beautifully. You can see the grey thread I used above and here it is on the right side of the garment.

Doesn't it look beautiful? Here's a look at the sleeve hems. I used the narrow 2 needle option, but there is also a 3 needle option, or a wider 2 needle option. You can also use one needle for a decorative chain-stitch.

Look there's no lump in between the stitching, no skipped stitches, and the hem is laying flat. Hallelujah!

Doesn't that look so professional? I love it! It's a bit tricky lining the hem up with the edge of the fabric, but with a little more practice I am sure it will be a breeze. There's always a bit of learning curve when I learn a new technique. So far, I am super happy with this machine, and I can't wait to use it more.

As for my Plantain, I cut my regular size 42, but for some reason this one is a bit more fitted than my other ones. I'm thinking it might be due to the fabric (or it could be all the slurpees and ice cream I've eaten this summer. Nah! Let's go with it being the fabric's fault). The grey is my favourite cotton spandex from Girl Charlee, and the lovely mint is a weird mystery knit that I picked up on Goldhawk Road when we were in London during the spring. It's a lovely weight and colour, and it has an okay amount of stretch, but pretty much no recovery. This shirt is still totally wearable, but I wish the mint was nice as the grey.

I used the pocket from Grainline's Archer and it didn't turn out quite as I imagined and I should have placed it a bit closer to the middle, but I'm still happy with it. I didn't want to unpick it and replace it, because I am sure there'd be little holes left in the fabric.

Seeing the back of this shirt, really makes me wish I wore a different bra for these pictures or that I had given myself a little extra room, but I didn't. You live and learn, and I know I will totally still wear this one a lot. It also got a tiny bit shorter than I had wanted.

So there you have it. If you are on the fence about a coverstitch machine, jump off and go buy one. If you sew with knits a lot then I think it's totally worth it. If you have any questions about it, feel free to ask. I promise to do my best to answer them. Hope you are enjoying these last days of summer. John and I are kind of gloating because it's supposed to snow in Calgary tomorrow (and Tuesday and Wednesday), can you believe it? But at the lake, where we currently are, it's still nice and warm! Woo hoo!

Happy Sewing!

The Jalie Dolman Tops

So I decided that my me-made wardrobe is lacking in basics. I really need t-shirts (and shirts in general) so enter the Jalie Dolman Tops (a pattern I ordered a while ago, but then completely forgot about). I generally like the look of Jalie patterns and I've made the raglan tops/tunic before which turned out really well, and they're Canadian so that' great too! These were super quick and easy to make, and I am totally digging the high- low hem. I chose my size based on my bust size, shortened it by 2 inches and away I went. I made a wearable muslin out of a super cheap knit I bought somewhere - it's pretty got pretty colours but not it's very high quality. I think I bought it on Goldhawk Road, but I'm not 100% sure. In person, the purple stripe is like a tissue, see-through knit, and the blue stripe is a heavier opaque knit - it's weird. But I'll probably still wear it.

The fit was not bad, but I thought it was a little big, and so did John, so I went down two sizes and made this one.

This one is made out of a gorgeous rayon knit I got from Wanderlust Fabrics. It's so soft and has a nice drape.

I love that high-low hem. I think this size fits much better. What do you think?

After the floral one, I was hooked. I find with t-shirts, especially ones without set in sleeves, that once you have the pattern traced, it takes no time at all to whip them out. So, I decided to try a long-sleeve one, and I'm really not in love with it. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I cut the sleeves (I probably wasn't thinking at all), but I feel like I look like a circus tent.

I feel like John took a hundred pictures of me, but none of them turned out overly well. I had attempted to take photos of myself without a tripod on the balcony, but they were terrible! Anyway, these two were the best of this top. The fabric is lovely. It's a bit thin, and it doesn't have a ton of stretch, but it's super soft and I am happy with it for a t-shirt. It came from Girl Charlee. I truly have mixed feelings about Girl Charlee. I always find the fabrics to be not quite as described when I finally get them into my hot little hands, and I'm usually disappointed when I first go through my order. But then I end up using them anyway, and am pretty much always happy with the garment. It's weird. It's not always the case. I do have a few fabrics from there that were god awful before and after I sewed with them, but most of the time, once I sew them up, I'm happy (and I get lots of compliments).

I am usually a stripes girl, but this top is my least favourite of the bunch. I'll probably chop off the sleeves and then maybe I'll like it more. I was originally planning a Grainline Hemlock tee out of this fabric so that could be the problem too - it's just not what I visualized.

The next two are my favourites. Why make one color- blocked tee, when you can make two? Both fabrics are from, you guessed it: Girl Charlee . They are both a cotton spandex knit that I have ordered twice before and been consistently happy with. It only seems to come in solid colours, but it's spongy and stretchy and it's lovely to wear. I have a long-sleeve plantain out of it, and also a long-sleeve renfrew out of it that I really like. And my contest winning Hudson's are made out of it too. Plus, I love love love this Jungle Green, it looks exactly as it was represented online. Yay!

I'm not sure what's going on with the fabric in this ˆ picture - I think it's just wrinkly from sitting in the cupboard.

So after I made these, I started reading about t-shirt fitting and full bust adjustments. I have never done an FBA, and according to what I've read, I'm kind of borderline for needing it. There is about a 2.5 inch difference between my bust and high bust measurement and my waist measurement is usually in a bigger size than my bust - what can I say I have a fat belly and weird proportions. Anyway, I am looking for a bit of advice. Do you think that this size looks right? Should I be choosing a size based on my high bust and then doing an FBA? Also any advice for rippling? Check out that ripply hem - is that something I'm doing wrong? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

So now I have all these lovely t-shirts and we come home to Calgary, and it's freezing. Okay freezing might be a bit of an exaggeration but it's cold and rainy and John even has the fireplace on. It's crazy! Plus there was snow in parts of the province - what up with that?!?! I'm not ready for winter. I still want to make more Alder Shirtdresses! Have you started planning your Fall/Winter sewing yet?

Hope it's warm where you are!

2 Monetas for the Price of One....

Okay obviously I am terrible at coming up with blog post titles, but I think we've already established that. Anyway, I made these two dresses a couple of weeks ago, but haven't had a chance to take photos or blog about them until now.  We are back in the city and yesterday I went out in the backyard with the tripod to take photos and was startled by a landscaper who had come in to start lawn maintenance - awkward! I smiled, grabbed the tripod, and high-tailed it back into the house until he was gone. Blogger problems! Anyway, I am quite happy with how the photos turned out. Here is my first version:

For my first Moneta, I went with the short-sleeve view in this pretty galaxy print I got from Girl Charlee. It's much thinner than I thought it would be but it is deliciously soft. Like flannel pyjama soft.  So what it lacks in weight, in makes up for in prettiness and softness.

I really like how comfy this dress is, and I feel that while it's still casual, it makes me feel a bit more put together than shorts and a tee. I was on the cusp between sizes, so I went with the L, but am wondering now if I could have gotten away with the M (it's a touch big in the shoulders). I chopped a whopping 2 inches off the bodice so it would hit at my (very short) natural waist, and then I took 1 inch off the skirt. What can I say? I'm short. My only real issue with the Moneta is figuring out which side is the front, and which side is the back. Looking at these pictures, I think there is a distinct possibility that I have it on backwards.

I guess I'll have to put a little tag in it or something. I wore this dress the night we went to see Guardians of the Galaxy and I didn't even clue in until we were leaving the theatre and someone gave me this knowing smile - and then I thought - I'm such a nerd, I wore my Galaxy print dress to the Guardians of the Galaxy! Cosplay and I didn't even know it. LOL. Not really, but I thought it was funny.

For my second version, I went with the sleeveless bodice and no collar. I feel like I have a ton of dresses with collars and I was worried about how the collar would lay in a knit, so I ditched it.

Are you sick of looking at pictures of me yet? Sorry to bombard you, but when I look at sewing/fashion blogs, I like to see all the angles so I can figure out how the pattern/outfit might look on me. Do you do that too? Plus, if you don't like to/have time to read you get a good idea of what's going on based on the pics.

This guy is also made out of a cotton lycra knit from Girl Charlee. It's super soft and I love the print. This bodice is lined and the Colette way of finessing the neck and armholes really is ingenious, but tricky. Thank goodness for the video, or I never would have figured it out. (Note to self, if you are going collarless, finish the neckline first!! And/or read through the entire tutorial before you start so you don't have any surprises at the end.) I have a bit of gaping at the neckline and armholes on this dress. And I am wondering if it's because the bodice is just a bit to big, or if I need to do some minor alterations - but alterations seem like such a pain in a knit dress.

I don't know, maybe a size down would be too revealing of all the lumps and bumps? Am I the only one who gets bra induced back fat? Is that okay to ask on the interwebs? Okay, maybe not bra induced but bra accentuated. And what is going on with the back of my hair? I need a haircut!

So that's it for my Monetas. I really like this pattern and I can see myself making it again - in fact I have some fabric already earmarked for a couple more. It's super quick to make and although I thought the elastic gathering at the waistline was kind of weird (and tricky), I really like the effect it creates and how it gives the waistline a bit of structure too.

I'll leave you with a couple of more pics of how I would wear this dress around town. Unless it is smoking hot out, I don't really love having my arms exposed in public so this is how I would wear this dress to run around - plus sometimes air-conditioned places are freezing! Hope you are having a great August so far!

The Out and About Dress(es)

I was going through my closet the other day and stumbled upon 2 little gems that I made back in February, and I thought, Hey, these are so cute, why don't I blog about them! So here we are the Sew Caroline Out and About Dresses (why is it that I seem to make at least 2 of everything?).

I'm also wearing my new Lotta from Stockholm clogs which I am super in love with - John is not the biggest fan, but I LOVE them! (And I've decided that they go with everything, so expect to see them a lot.)

Look at those white legs!!

I made both of these dresses out of fabric I got from my first Girl Charlee order and with both of them I was a little surprised (and disappointed) at how thin the fabrics were, but they are both soft and have cute prints, so I went for it, and I thought they would go great with leggings. I think that's why I kind of forgot about them, in my mind they are winter dresses. But in actuality they are the perfect summer weight.

John took these photos for me so no remote! Yay! I do have some silly faces going on though. I'm lucky to have such a supportive husband - he really has been super supportive of my new obsession hobby: listening to me ramble on, giving me fit advice, fabric shopping etc.  And the pugs had to join in the fun too. Check out that massive Jackie Boy yawn in the picture above.

Goofy action shot!

I think this was my second ever knit project and my second experience with a pdf pattern. The pattern was great, as were the instructions and this was a really simple sew. It took me about one afternoon of sewing for each one. I also learned a trick to gather the skirt using my serger/overlocker. All you do is set the needle tension to about 8 and the differential speed to 2 and voila - a perfect gathered skirt. Super easy!

I think that's all I have to say about that. Trying on these knit dresses again, makes me really excited to try the Colette Moneta pattern too. Knit dresses are so comfy - it's like wearing dressy pyjamas! I hope it's nice and warm where you are.

Happy Sewing!

My New Favourite Lounge Pant - The Hudson!

Ya, I know, real creative title. But I'm serious, this is my new favourite thing to wear whilst lounging around the house. It's also super fun to sew up. It's the Hudson Pant by True Bias.

When I first saw these on Instagram, I knew that I wanted to make them. A comfy, lounge pant that can be worn for quick trips to the store? I'm in. Unfortunately, the pattern hadn't been released yet. So I stalked Kelli on her blog and Instagram until the release date, and I bought it the morning it came out.

For my wearable muslin, I used a ponte de roma that I picked up on sale at Fabricland months ago. It's thick and super soft - perfect for a lounge pant. It was on sale, so I bought 4 colours.

I think they look cool with the contrasting waistband and cuffs, and I like that they have kind of a retro feel. My only issue, is I don't know what to wear them with. Nothing looks quite right to me. I am seriously considering making a matching hoodie to this pair for a full on leisure suit, but that might be a little warm for this time of year. I guess I'll just have to find the perfect t-shirt pattern to go with it.

There was a little bird in the tree next to me watching and singing as I took these pictures. I guess he was a bit distracting. I really have to work on my photography skills. Taking good selfies is harder than it looks.

Of course, I loved these pants so much, I had to make another pair.  I decided to go with black ponte de roma, and a contrasting pocket.

I love these ones even more than my first pair. And because they are a basic black, they go with everything! The only really problem with them, is that they seem to be a magnet for pug hair! But that's the story of my life - perhaps I need to make a fawn coloured pair, so the hair just blends in.

Here I am in an extremely awkward pose, trying to show off the pocket detail. I like the penguins, but I think it might have looked better with a different print. Maybe next time - I definitely see more of these pants in my near future.

These pants are a little bit lower rise than I usually wear, but I don't normally walk around with my shirt tucked in, so I think they work. And they are super comfy. I like that they are slim, but not legging tight. I am looking forward to sewing up another pair in the shorter - capri-length. And I am also looking forward to experimenting with different fabrics too. This is a great pattern and definitely at TNT (Tried and True) for me.

If you are interested in sewing up a pair of your own Hudsons, Kelli has a great sew-a-long on her blog and these are a pretty easy project.

Happy Sewing!