Okay, we're making our way into something a bit more seasonally appropriate: the Liana Stretch Jeans by Itch to Stitch. This was actually my third time making this pattern. If you've followed me for awhile, you'll know I LOVE sewing jeans. It really is a true passion of mine. Anyway, I've tried a number of patterns, and while this one was in my pattern stash for quite a while, it took me a while to actually sew it up.
Back in January, I sewed up two pairs of Lianas and loved them. I was blown away by how well they fit me right off the bat. My first two pairs are size 8s, with no changes whatsoever. It was like the pattern was designed for me! I didn't even have to shorten the legs (they were a little long but I always cuff my skinny jeans so that's how I wanted them). Woo! Anyway, I wore those first 2 pairs almost exclusively for about 3 months, and decided that I would like another pair with a slightly higher rise, which is where this pair came in.
A really great thing about this pattern, is it comes with 3 different leg styles: skinny, straight, and bootcut. As I am quite partial to a skinny leg, of course that's what I chose for all three pairs. It also has the option of a pocket with or without the flap. I had never tried pocket flaps before, so I decided to give those a go too.
Anyway, I started with a straight size 8 again, and raised the rise by 1". I made the flap pockets as drafted but decided they were a bit small, so I unpicked them. You see, in my opinion, if you want your butt to look huge, sew on small pockets LOL. Anyway, after I consulted my Instagram sewing friend, and jeans maker extraordinaire, Alina, I decided the pockets needed to be much bigger! I used the original pattern pocket pieces, and enlarged them with my little home photocopier/scanner, and it worked brilliantly. How great is it to have sewing friends!?!
John wasn't a fan of the larger pockets at first (he thought they were a bit too big), but they grew on him. ;) I just think the larger pockets help balance the space out. If the pockets are small, it just looks wrong to my eye (and my butt looked HUGE). You might have a different preference, and that's totally cool. I think that's one of the beautiful things about making your own jeans, you can make things the way you want to. Anyway, I never would have thought to go quite this big without Alina, and she also looked at lots of photos of my butt, and for that I am very grateful. 😜
For this pair, I used a 9.5 oz Cone Mill S-Gene denim from Threadbare Fabrics, and I used the same bright orange topstitching thread that I used on my Hampton Jean Jacket (I'm wearing my first pair of Liana Stretch jeans in that post too).
The Liana pattern is great; well-drafted with detailed instructions, and there is a sew along to go with it on the Itch to Stitch blog too. I would definitely recommend this pattern, and will be making it again. I have full intentions to try both the straight leg and bootcut versions too.
Have you sewn your own jeans yet?
PS: If you want to learn more about Alina, and her jeans expertise, check out her website Dogwood Denim, or find her on Instagram. She's based in Canada, and currently, she's getting ready to take orders for women's custom jeans. How cool is that? (Sidenote: I have no affiliation with Alina or Dogwood denim, but we're sewing friends and I love what she's doing so I wanted to mention that too. Woo!)