Guys, I keep taking these unintentional blogging breaks. I don't know what is going on with me, but I seem to be adverse to blogging lately. Anyway, I am deep down the rabbit hole of jeans making, but I'm not quite ready to share all that with you yet, so let's take a look at one of my summer projects: the Edith Blouse by Maria Denmark.
This blouse has been on my radar for quite sometime, but Helen's pushed me over the edge. Aren't they gorgeous? Those Carline Liberty prints are amazing! Anyway, when I went onto Maria Denmark's web page to buy the pattern, I discovered that you could purchase either a B or C cup pattern. I went with the C cup pattern, chose my size via my upper bust as usual, and proceeded with my normal full bust adjustment.
I think this worked out okay, but I'm not in love with the fit. It looks pretty good as long as I don't move. Ha ha! I should also mention that the pdf was easy to put together and the drafting is really good. The only issue I have with the pattern itself is that you have to add your own seam allowances and I hate doing that! What can I say, I'm a lazy sewist.
I'm not sure if it's my fabric choice, which is a medium weight cotton from Fabricland, or because I should have just picked my size based on my full bust measurement, but I am not happy with the fit. It doesn't look too bad in these photos, but when I move the whole shirt moves with me. If I move my arms the shoulders move up to my ears. It makes this top a little uncomfortable, and I'm thinking it's not meant to be that structured. My darts are a little bubbly and probably a touch too long (not my best sewing), and it almost looks like I don't have enough room in the bust still. I think that's a bit strange and makes me think that I should have just went with my full bust size. What causes those diagonal wrinkles, does anyone know?
While I do quite like this blouse, I'm not sure it's really me, so I didn't attempt to remake it like I normally would. I am currently thrilled with my Archers, and my sleeveless Granvilles, so I didn't pursue Edith. I may go back to it next summer, but who knows. I like the idea of the dress version so maybe.
I wanted to go with red buttons, but I didn't have any in my stash that I liked, so I chose yellow, and I'm really happy with the combo. It's a shame I don't really like the fit. I still wore this blouse a few times this summer though, so not all is lost.
I've decided to leave all my adjustments to last, as I like when other sewing bloggers do that, and then all the fit stuff is in one place, so here we go:
- started with a 38 C
- did an FBA of 1.5" (3" total)
- moved the dart point up to be in line with my apex point
- moved the fish eye dart up by an inch because I moved the bust dart
- did a 1/4" forward shoulder adjustment
- added 1/4" for a high round back adjustment
- and lowered the armhole by 1/2"
- finished the hem with bias tape
Phew! That was a lot, thank goodness I take notes! John wasn't super keen on the flat collar. I was surprised as he usually likes retro style, but he, like me, prefers my Archer and Granville collars. Am I sounding like a broken record yet?
Anyway, I hope you had a great weekend. Are you sewing for fall yet? I haven't made a plan myself, but I've seen a lot of great ones out there, particularly Katie's. I love her fall/winter list so much that I just might copy it, in different fabrics of course. Ha!