My Summer Hawthorn

I am so happy that I love this dress, because it was a nightmare while I was making it. I am really glad that I didn't give up on it, as I was tempted to do a number of times, and it actually turned out to be exactly what I was looking for: a comfortable, light, casual summer sundress. IMG_4845

So the pattern is Colette's Hawthorn. It's a great pattern and even has a cute peplum top variation. I decided that I would make the top as a wearable muslin first, and this would help me practice making button holes and also give me an idea of any fitting changes I might need to make. The top turned out pretty well except that the fabric I used was pretty thin, and I'm not entirely sure that I will wear it, but it was good practice. I debated and debated looking at the top if I should shorten the bodice a little bit, but I really wasn't sure - I made a note in my sewing journal (yes, I am a nerd and take notes on every project I make). It was little bit tight at the waist too and I couldn't decide if that was because of my fat belly or if it was because the waist was not at the right level, but thought I could just let the side seam out a tiny bit at the waist if need be. I also made a note to do a narrow shoulder adjustment too as I wanted it sleeveless, and there was just a touch to much fabric across the shoulders. Fast forward two weeks when I decided to finally make the dress version.

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I had this swiss dot chambray I bought at Denver Fabrics in my stash for months with the plans of making an Emery, but seeing as my last Emery was a bit of a flop, I decided it would be perfect for this Hawthorn (and I was right). I decided to ignore my notes on shortening the bodice, but I did narrow the shoulders by 1/2". The construction went along beautifully. Everything fit together perfectly, the insides looked beautiful - I was even thinking how this would be a dress that I took pictures of the inside for my blog so you could see how great seam work was. I sewed the button holes, but before I cut them, I decided to try it on. It looked horrible. It was too big, the waist was definitely too low and John was not in love with my fabric choice (not really a surprise as he doesn't really like anything denimish if it's not jeans). This was about 11 o'clock at night, and John and I both decided I should just scrap the whole mess, chalk it up to a learning experience and start over. I was upset, and of course obsessed about it all night.

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When I got up in the morning, I decided it wasn't as bad as I thought and that I needed to save it. I just loved that chambray, and I had already put so much effort into it. I ended up unpicking the waist seam (and two button holes - such a pain) and shortening the bodice by an inch. Then because the waist was now in the right place, I took in the side seams by about a 1/4'' and it fit perfectly. I re-spaced the two button holes I unpicked and re-sewed them (so now the button spacing isn't perfect, but it's not really noticeable). And voila, perfect fitting Hawthorn. I am really glad that I persevered because I love this dress and I have worn a bunch of times already. It's cool and comfy, and as an added bonus, I think it flatters my shape really well too. It's a bit wrinkly in these photos as I had been wearing it all day, but it presses really nice.

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I have now transferred all my changes to the flat pattern, so my next one should go much more smoothly, and I will definitely be making another one. Thank goodness for my inherited OCD and determined, won't let it go attitude, it really paid off this time.

Has something like this ever happened to you? Have you ever worked on a project to think it was an epic fail, but then found a way to save it? (It happens to me all the time, ask the boys - they've been served many a grilled cheese that was burned on the inside from me turning the bread around because I had used up the last slice. What can I say, I'm crafty ;) )

Beetlejuice! Beetlejuice! Beetle....

Oops, careful not to say it 3 times! Did you ever see that movie? It was one of my favourites when I was younger. It bordered on scary for me (I am the biggest fraidy cat ever - and I was only about 10 when I first saw it), but it was funny so I was able to look past the scary elements. It was my first introduction to Winona Ryder, Alec Baldwin, and Geena Davis, who all quickly became favourites of mine. Plus it also contained the musical stylings of Harry Belafonte. What's not to love?  I already loved Michael Keaton from his Mr. Mom fame - another one of my favourite movies, I'll have to track that one down and watch it again. They just don't make movies like that anymore. I'm discovering that the 80s is quickly becoming my favourite movie decade. Who'd of thought? Anyway, I digress, here is my Beetle blouse:

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This is probably one of my favourite makes so far, and guess what? It's self-drafted! Self-drafted you say? Yup, I created this pattern. Okay not totally from scratch, I had a bit of help. A while back I stumbled upon this post by Karen of Blinky Sews. She talked about this cool pattern-making set/template called Bonfit Patterners. It sounded really interesting to me, as I am always up for learning more about sewing, so I googled it. Turns out Bonfit Canada is based out of Calgary!! It was meant to be. I called the lovely lady up (the president of the company: Midge Travis), and she told me I could stop by and pick up a kit. She turned out to be this extremely sweet older lady ("I'm 88 you know!") and she even wrote books to accompany the patterers.  The style suggestions are very 80s (I'm seeing a theme here), but I pretty much love all the silhouettes they suggest, and you can use the base template you create to make just about any style. Anyway, I still have a lot to learn, and this blouse is definitely not perfect, but I think it's pretty awesome for my first attempt at pattern drafting.

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This was my first attempt at a sway back alteration (the tutorial I used is here - very helpful), and I thought it turned out okay, but from the look of this picture, I may still need to take a little more out of the back.

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The other issue that I should have addressed but didn't was arm-hole gape. Because I went sleeveless, I should have re-adjusted the arm hole and probably added a bust dart, and maybe made the shoulder seam a bit shorter. That all seemed extremely complicated to me, so I thought I would leave it for this go around. I have been actually pretty OCD about perfecting the fit of this blouse since I made it, so my next version which is coming soon, should be better. Pattern drafting is really hard, yo! (And it requires a whole lot of muslins.) I have so much respect and admiration for all those amazing pattern designers/makers out there.

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I learned a ton making this blouse, I have never made a button-down, collared shirt (this collar was pretty easy as it has no stand and is meant to lie open) before so it was a complete learning experience. Not to toot my own horn, but I feel so incredibly proud and accomplished now that it's done. I really took my time and put love into this top, which is probably why I love it so much. Plus when I showed the final product to my husband he said "I love it!", which is rare, so that made me feel even more amazing.

The fabric is a Michael Miller quilting cotton from Fabricland and the buttons are just plain black plastic buttons from Fabricland too. Here's a detail of the beetleness:

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The cool thing about making your own pattern is that it is based solely on your own measurements. How awesome is that? The books by Midge that accompany this patterner are awesome. She talks a lot about fit issues and how to identify them, and suggestions on how to make patterns work for your shape. I've only read the Bodice book so far, but I learned a ton. I'm not sure if I will continue to draft all my own patterns because if I did they would probably look all the same - I just don't know enough, but it's fun to play with this system and I'm learning lots about my shape and what works for me, so that's good too. I am hoping that I might be able to create a template to help me fit other patterns to my body - I think that's called a sloper? I have a pretty huge stack of patterns on my sewing shelf waiting for me, so I'm not sure what to make next but we'll see if this experience helps.

Hope you all are having a lovely week!

The Rough Diamond Washi

Ah...yes, the rough diamond, not the diamond in the rough, as I seem to have way more washis than there are Aladdins in Akrabah. But anyway the point is I'm attempting to get more creative with my titles to lure you in. Do you feel lured? :) Not yet, how about with this weirdo come hither look: IMG_4723

I am not entirely sure what is going on in these pictures. I took them awhile ago (myself) and I seem to have some strange angles and facial expressions going one. Plus my dress is wrinkly from wearing it all day. It really is much better when John takes my photos, hooray for helpful husbands!

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This is my favourite Washi so far, and I'm sure I've said that before, but this one really is. I actually addressed some fit issues in between this one, and the one I made before this. I once again used the Washi expansion pack and chose the curved peter pan collar and the normal curved sleeves. I also went with the elastic casing for the back, instead of the shirring. I found that this worked really well.

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I think the elastic in the casing is a little bit stronger and cinches in the waist a bit more. I also haven't quite mastered shirring with elastic on my new Pfaff, so this was easier.  The bodice is also lined, and I loved Rae's crazy all in one lining and finishing method. Thank goodness for videos, because I'm not sure I could have done it without those. It's really cool and I need to figure out how to do it on other dress bodices too!

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I lengthened the bodice by about an inch and now I think it hits in exactly the right place - it's amazing what such tiny amount of  seam movement can do. I also took about a half inch dart out of the neckline on either side, so now the collar and neckline lay flat  - unfortunately I forgot to make the collar smaller so it overlaps a little at the front, but you can hardly tell so I didn't bother unpicking it.

The fabric is from Fabricland out here in Salmon Arm. I think it's an apparel cotton and it was a dream to work with. The perfect weight. When I saw it, I really loved the colours, but the diamonds were actually meant to go horizontally. How weird is that? I didn't think that would make for a very flattering dress, so I cut my dress so the diamonds would be vertical. Luckily for me, I am short enough that it worked out and no one is the wiser. There are definite perks to being vertically challenged.

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So there you have it, fourth Washi completed! Just seeing these pictures makes me want to make another one. What is it with this pattern? I actually think, I might pick apart and remake my Apple Washi, as it's a bit tight across the boobs and it has that weird neckline thing going on which I have now figured out, and I think I have enough fabric left over to remake the bodice too.

Are you addicted to any one piece of clothing? Or maybe a sewing pattern? Are you sick of the Washis yet?

The Hummingbird Dress

I'm so good at coming up with names, aren't I? Very creative! This is my easy, breezy, hummingbird dress. IMG_4784

And apparently I'm all about the short hemlines this summer, must have something to do with the heat we're having out in BC.

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I am beginning to realize that all the ground in front of our house is on a slope (that or the tiles are sinking) and maybe it's not the best place for blog photos.

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This dress is the Angie Dress by Sis Boom. It's quick and easy to sew up (great for a beginner), and it pops over your head so no finicky zips! Yay! It's got a small piece of elastic hidden in the back waistline - you can't see it as it's sewn into the seam allowance on the inside. It gathers up the skirt to make it a little more fitted and adds to the comfort level of the dress as it moves with your body when you sit down or bend, or whatever it is you like to do in a dress. Also, it has pockets!

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I decided to finish this dress with store bought bias tape, and have it show for contrast. John suggested I add it to the hem of the skirt, so I did and I really like the finished product. This dress also has an included optional sash, which I decided to make too as it cinches in the waist just a little bit more, and I like the look of it.

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I am thinking that a black sash would look really sharp as well, so I plan to make one soon too.

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I really love the fabric of this dress. I don't usually wear grey, but I fell in love wither little colourful hummingbirds. I picked this fabric up in the quilting section of, you guessed it, Fabricland. It's a medium to light weight cotton and worked perfectly with this pattern.

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John and I were goofing around, can you tell I'm having fun? I don't think this dress really goes with my brown clogs, but they were the best choice I had with me. It was brown clogs or beat up runners, so the clogs won out. Perhaps this could be an excuse to buy another pair in black?

Hmmmm...what else can I say about this dress? Oh, the pdf pattern was awesome! It was super easy to assemble and the instructions that came with it were extremely detailed and helpful. Lots of great pictures, and descriptions of techniques. This is a great, comfy, and easy to wear day dress, and I will definitely make it again.

Happy Sewing! (Or Cooking, Baking, Crafting, Knitting, Writing, Eating, Watching TV or whatever it is you like to do!)

The Sunflower Laurel

Okay guys, confession time - I bought fabric! I was trying to do The Summer Stashbust, but I just couldn't handle the restriction. All I could do was think about fabric shopping. I was looking at fabric online, filling up virtual carts, looking at crazy patterns I would normally never buy.  I was having nightmares, tossing and turning, and all I could do was think of fabric - must have more fabric, must have more..... My pulse would increase and my knees would weaken every time I saw my dwindling stash (who am I kidding, my stash is pretty huge for only sewing for 7 months). Okay so that may be a bit of an exaggeration, but I kept wanting to make projects that I just didn't have the appropriate fabric for, so I cracked. John said it isn't really cheating, because he bought the fabric (and came to Fabricland and picked a bunch out with me). But my indiscretion was gnawing at me, so I felt that I needed to come clean. Funnily enough, as soon as I allowed myself to buy - I didn't feel the intense need to hoard anymore. Apparently I don't do well with restriction! Anyway, on to the dress. This is a summery short-sleeved little shift dress called Laurel by Colette Patterns. This pattern was the first dress pattern I ever made, and I would show you the dress, but it literally fell a part at the seams. I'm not sure what happened, I blame cheap fabric, but nonetheless, here is my successful version (which hasn't fallen apart yet).

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I love this dress! It's light and super easy to wear, perfect for summer! Plus it's colourful and has kind of a tie-dyed, hippy vibe going on. The fabric is from the aforementioned trip to Fabricland and it's a little stiff, but I am hoping it will soften up with more washes and wears.

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I am not thrilled with the neckline, and I might unpick it and redo. I didn't have the exact right bias tape and I thought what I had would do, but in looking at these pics, I'm not so sure. But I am thrilled with my invisible zip - you can't even see it at all!

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I really need to come up with some more interesting poses. John's taking my photos for me now by the way. My neckline isn't really that gapey, I think it's just from the stiff fabric lifting up the dress with my ridiculous pose.

This was a super easy dress to make, hello instant gratification and I am super happy with it. It's unlined so it's light and airy and summer (so it qualifies for the Summer Sundress Sewalong - at least I am making good on one challenge). It may be a pinch too short. It looks fine when I am standing up straight, but I have to be very careful if I drop something, or when getting into the car. Maybe I should just make myself some matching undies LOL.

Are you wearing sundresses this summer or are you more of a shorts person? Either way I hope you are enjoying your summer! 

The Emery Fail

I'm really not sure what went wrong. Maybe it's because I started this dress back in May, and finished 2 days ago. Maybe I made the wrong size. What I am pretty sure of is that I picked the wrong fabric. IMG_4769

See what I mean? I think the fabric on it's own isn't bad, but it is not very flattering on me. This is the Emery Dress by Christine Haynes. It's a lovely design and lovely pattern, but unfortunately, it may not be for me. Although, I did make another version a few months ago, and I don't remember it being this unflattering. I think it must be the plaid causing some kind of weird optical illusion or something.

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It actually looks better in the photos, than it does in the mirror. The fit isn't spot on, but it's not too bad. I think if I do attempt this pattern again I'll make it in one size up. This size  fits okay (I think), but it's a little tight across the boobs. Perhaps I've been eating a few too much pizza and chocolate. (Mmmmmm...chocolate...) I'm still learning, and I'm not really sure at how to identify my fitting issues, so if you have any ideas or advice for me, I would love to hear (read) it.

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The collar isn't perfect either. I'm not sure what I did wrong, but something isn't right with it. Is it maybe on backwards? I also didn't bother with pattern matching. Why? I'm not sure, probably because I don't play by anyone else's rules. Ya - let's go with that.

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This fabric came from somewhere in London (I can't remember exactly where), and its a lightweight cotton seersucker. I thought it would be perfect for a light summer dress, and it probably would be in a different print. Turns out I should have attempted to make John a shirt instead. Oh well, you win some you lose some.

Happy Sewing (or doing whatever it is that you like to do)!

I Made Shorts!!

I know, right? I can hardly believe it myself! I made shorts and they even fit!

IMG_4739My goodness, do I look fine in photos. That girl can pose. LOL

IMG_4742Stop you're blinding me with your white legs - please...noooooo.....

IMG_4743Can you tell, John is taking these pictures and I am having too much fun?

Okay, but seriously, down to business. These are the Juba Shorts by Imagine Gnats. When I first saw this pattern hit the net, I thought, oh what a cute pair of pyjama shorts. And then I thought, not for me, I have too much lounge wear already (and plans for more). But then I saw some other versions cropping up, and Rachel posted a couple of pocket tutorials on her blog, and I thought, I could make these and wear them out of the house! And I could make them the right length and they might actually look good on me. And it soooooo hot right now. (Side note: I have struggled with shorts FOREVER! Every time I try some on they just don't look right, and John crinkles his nose and says, maybe shorts just aren't right for you. At first I thought it was just John being hyper-honest, but then I took the boys shopping with me too, and they said the same thing. I don't know what it is, maybe a proportional thing.)

Anyway, I am super happy with how this pair turned out. I used a super cheap, supposed to be cotton, but I think it's polyester, fabric from Denver Fabrics. And while the fabric is kind of rough and scratchy, they turned out so well (and the polka dots are so cute) that I have been wearing them. They're a teensy bit big in the waist, but I think that might be from my choice of tricot elastic (you don't always know until you try right?). It seemed like a good idea at the time.... Anyway, of course I had to make a second pair. And they turned out even better (if I do say so myself).

IMG_4727This would be a pretty typical Summer House outfit for me. Sorry for the old t-shirt, but it's one of my favs. I got it at Lucky Brand in Montreal back in 2009 just after John and I got married. I don't know why I love it so much. I think that it's just soft and comfy and it fits well - maybe I need to figure out how to copy it......

IMG_4728And check out those cute shoes. They have little anchors on them, and when I saw them at Walmart for $12, I couldn't resist!

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For the second pair, I used a super soft and lightweight cotton twill from the clearance department at Fabricland. I am super happy with how they turned out. A cute casual short. The awesome thing about this pattern, is that it is simple and comfy, and endlessly customizable. I have plans to make another pair with side seam pockets and I am even playing with the idea of trying welt pockets for the back - but welt pockets kind of scare me.

Anyway, how's your summer going so far? Do you wear shorts, or are they on your no no list too?

The Out and About Dress(es)

I was going through my closet the other day and stumbled upon 2 little gems that I made back in February, and I thought, Hey, these are so cute, why don't I blog about them! So here we are the Sew Caroline Out and About Dresses (why is it that I seem to make at least 2 of everything?).

IMG_4745I'm also wearing my new Lotta from Stockholm clogs which I am super in love with - John is not the biggest fan, but I LOVE them! (And I've decided that they go with everything, so expect to see them a lot.)

IMG_4748Look at those white legs!!

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I made both of these dresses out of fabric I got from my first Girl Charlee order and with both of them I was a little surprised (and disappointed) at how thin the fabrics were, but they are both soft and have cute prints, so I went for it, and I thought they would go great with leggings. I think that's why I kind of forgot about them, in my mind they are winter dresses. But in actuality they are the perfect summer weight.

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John took these photos for me so no remote! Yay! I do have some silly faces going on though. I'm lucky to have such a supportive husband - he really has been super supportive of my new obsession hobby: listening to me ramble on, giving me fit advice, fabric shopping etc.  And the pugs had to join in the fun too. Check out that massive Jackie Boy yawn in the picture above.

IMG_4767Goofy action shot!

I think this was my second ever knit project and my second experience with a pdf pattern. The pattern was great, as were the instructions and this was a really simple sew. It took me about one afternoon of sewing for each one. I also learned a trick to gather the skirt using my serger/overlocker. All you do is set the needle tension to about 8 and the differential speed to 2 and voila - a perfect gathered skirt. Super easy!

I think that's all I have to say about that. Trying on these knit dresses again, makes me really excited to try the Colette Moneta pattern too. Knit dresses are so comfy - it's like wearing dressy pyjamas! I hope it's nice and warm where you are.

Happy Sewing!