Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan

Hello Everybody1 I'm back with a post that I should have written weeks ago, but you know what they say, better late than never right? This is the latest pattern from Helen of Helen's Closet: the Blackwood Cardigan. I was lucky enough to be part of Helen's tester group this go around, and I've been wearing this bad boy a ton since I made it back in January.

This cardigan is close fitting, with long sleeves to keep you nice an cozy. It comes in two versions, a long (about mid-thigh length) and a short (which hits around your high hip). It's super quick to whip up (especially if you have a serger) and it is sure to be a  wardrobe staple. When Helen sent me an email with the design, I just knew I had to have it. This cardigan is exactly what I'm missing in my wardrobe.

When Helen first emailed me the design, I just knew I had to have it. This cardigan is exactly what I've been missing in my wardrobe. I know that oversize and boxy, seems to be the trend lately, but when you live in a cooler climate and have to throw a winter coat over whatever you're wearing, close fitting can be more practical. Plus, I'm short and a a bit boxy myself, so I like a bit more shape to my garments. I also find that when it's cold, I want to feel snuggled, and a more close fitting garment does that for me.

Based on my measurements, I chose a size L. I decided to make the longer version (view A) first, but I knew it was going to be way too long, so I shortened it by 4 inches. I also shortened the sleeves by 3". I'm super happy with how the length turned out.  The sleeves are meant to be on the longer side to help keep your hands warm, but also so you can hold on to them when you put your coat on over it. I think this is genius. I hate when my sleeves get all bunched up inside my jacket. 

The only trouble I had with sewing this cardigan was sewing those pockets on without them going all wonky. I must have unpicked that first one 3 times!! Then someone in the test group mentioned stabilizing the pocket with wonder tape or steam-a-seam, and it worked perfectly. Why didn't I think of that?? (You can also use tissue paper, and Helen has now included how to do that in the instructions). Anyway, I still had to sew carefully, but I know if I had done that in the first place I would have avoided A LOT of unpicking. Other than that, this cardigan sewed up super quickly, and is definitely an instant gratification project. I love those, especially in between more intense projects. 

I should also mention that the pdf went together super quick, and the instructions are awesome. Helen's graphics are fantastic, and she also has lots of great little tips included too.

The fabric I used for this version, is an amazing sweater knit from Blackbird Fabrics. It's a rayon-cotton-modal blend, and it's so soft and so cozy! It's a medium weight, but it really feels like a sweater. Sometimes you get sweater knits and they're thin, but this stuff is really nice. And guess what, it's just been restocked. How's that for timing? I don't think this colour (Ivy) is available any longer, but there is still black,  mellow mauve (I love that name), dusk (which is like a dark navy) and steel grey.

Anyway, it feels good to have this post written, phew! I don't know what it is, but I've just not been into blogging lately. I'm definitely still into sewing, but blogging always seems to be waaaaay back on the very back burner. LOL. And I've been really awful with reading other people's blogs too. Ugh! Anyway, I have also made the shorter version of this cardigan but I haven't properly photographed that one yet. Hopefully I'll get around to that soon. I hope you guys are staying warm!

More Archers!!

Hey Everybody!! How are you all? I'm doing pretty well, but I'm cold!! This winter is going on forever! When will it warm up?!?! Anyway, I thought I'd do another quick and dirty post to show you my latest Archers. The Archer pattern is definitely a TNT for me, and I wear them all the time!! Sewing a button down shirt is so satisfying and even more so, when it fits!! I'll post the details at the bottom, and again if you have questions for me, or if I left anything out, don't hesitate to ask.

The deets:

  • started with a size 6
  • did a 1" FBA (for 2" total)
  • shortened the sleeves by 1.5" and used tower plackets from the Popover Variation Pack
  • I usually shorten the body too, but this time I didn't. I'm digging longer lengths lately

The fabric:

  1. The Eiffel Tower fabric is from Sew Over It (and they still have it). I think it's actually more of a quilting/craft cotton but it worked perfectly for this shirt.
  2. This is a Liberty Tana Lawn from Shaukat. I believe it's called Picardie B. It's kind of funny, when I was trying to find the name of the fabric I discovered someone else made almost exactly the same shirt, except she went with the ruffle butt version. Great minds think alike I guess. ;)
  3. This one is made from scraps of the Liberty one, with some gorgeous tencel denim from Blackbird Fabrics. I think it's sold out now, but they do have some nice chambray instock. Or if you have your heart set on tencel denim I think Stylemaker Fabrics has some similar here and here, and Threadbare Fabrics has this gorgeous one in stock too (it's lighter in colour and weight than what I used but still beautiful and perfect for summer).

Told you it would be quick! I hope you're all doing well! 

PS: I just realized I have different glasses on in each group of photos. I took the photos on different days, anyway, my glasses are all internet cheapies from Firmoo.com if you're interested. I like having a bit of a glasses selection, and also being able to try some trends without having to commit. ;) I've said this before haven't I? I'm getting old guys, I'm getting old. Ha ha ha!

Sew House 7 - Toaster Sweater 2

Okay so here I am back in the land of being behind with my blogging. Ugh! I took these photos over a month ago! Anyway, this post is going to be quick and dirty, with lots of photos. This is my Toaster Sweater 2 by Sew House 7.  For the details, scroll on down ;)

Okay the nitty gritty:

  • Fabric: this is a dreamy, double brushed poly knit from LA Finch Fabrics (I think there are sold out of blue but they do have black and green). It feels amazing but is probably a bit too thin and fluid for the neckline of this pattern. Still, I love it!
  • I chose a size M based on the finished measurements. I made no changes and as you can see the sleeves are long, but the top itself is quite short. If I lift my arms up, you can see my belly at the sides. Next time, I will lengthen it.
  • The only part I got hung up on was the neckline, I didn't notch super carefully, and I didn't fold it down the right amount the first time. I don't know why the instructions confused me, but they did. Anyway I unpicked and re-did it and it's fine. The funnel neckline is really cool, but I'm not sure it's me. I want to fiddle with it a lot, but making this pattern up in the recommended fabric, might help. ;)

There we go, a quick and dirty post. If I've forgotten to tell you anything or you have more questions, please don't hesitate to ask! I hope your February is going well so far!

Sew Over It - The Heather Dress

Hi Guys! Happy New Year!! I meant to get this post in before the end of the year, but you know, life happens, and blogging doesn't. LOL. I still have so many things to post about! I may just do some short and sweet, heavy on the pictures posts, so I can get them out there. I'm terribly behind with reading blogs too. I took a peak at my Bloglovin' feed yesterday and I think I'm something like 26 days behind. Eeeeepp!! Now I'm even more intimidated to catch up! I'll get there someday..... maybe.....

Anyway, here are my Sew Over It Heather dresses! I first spotted this dress on Lisa Comfort's instagram feed (I think, it may have been Sew Over It's feed) and I loved it. But at the time, she hadn't released the pattern for it yet. So when Sew Over It announced the pattern release back in late October, I jumped on it. Not only does this dress share my name, it's super comfy and snuggly, and the perfect everyday dress.

I made my first version out of a french terry that I had in my stash. I'm pretty sure it came from Out of Hand in Calgary. In hindsight, it probably wasn't stretchy enough, but I thought the weight was perfect and at the very least, it would work for a wearable muslin.

I started with the long sleeve version in a size 14, and shortened both the sleeves and body by 2 inches.

As you can see, it's a little tight across the bust and, the hips/butt. Plus the french terry seems to stick to everything. When I wear leggings with this bad boy, it's kind of a twisty mess. Ha ha! I did manage to wear it a couple of times before it got really cold with bare legs and it was much better. I probably would be okay with regular tights too, but anyway.

I was little worried about wearing a solid coloured dress, but I think this pattern really works in a solid colour. It has those nice princess seams and the pockets are really cool too. Anyway, even though this version had a few fit issues, I really love the style, so it was a no brainer to make another one. 

I hummed and hawed about fabric, but finally settled on this beautiful liverpool knit from LA Finch Fabrics. I had no idea what a liverpool knit was when I ordered this fabric, but when I got it, I was pleasantly surprised. I would describe it as a really stretchy scuba, with an almost crepe-y, bumpy texture. It worked perfectly for this dress.

I don't look overly happy in these pictures, but I assure you, I love this dress! I'm still getting used to taking photos indoors, and by myself with the tri-pod, so there's that too. Ha ha!

So for this version, I went with the size 14 again, but with 3/4 length sleeves. I also shortened the body another 1 inch, so 3 inches total.

So with a stretchier knit you can see the fit is much better. It still looks like I might need a sway back adjustment, but that could also be how I'm standing, and/or the dress hung up on my leggings.

I love those pockets. This pattern again, has 5/8" seam allowances (just like all the other Sew Over It patterns I've sewn so far), so that makes it a bit tricky to construct with only a serger. And really the way the pockets go together, you probably want to at least baste all the front pieces together with your regular machine and then take it to the serger.

I haven't made anymore Heather Dresses, yet, but I totally have plans too. They're a quick sew, super easy to wear, and fairly stylish in my opinion. 😊

Hope the New Year is treating you well so far!

Sew Over It City Capsule Collection - The Alex Shirtdress

Yep, I'm back again! Can you believe it? I'm on a blogging roll. I told you guys I had lots to show you! I think I'm just trying to get everything in before the end of the year. LOL! Anyway, once again, I'll try to keep this short and sweet!

This is the Alex Shirtdress from the Sew Over It City Break Capsule Collection.

When I first saw this pattern in the ebook, I must admit, I wasn't 100% sure about it. I love the shirt version, but I wasn't sure if it would have enough shape for me as a dress. 

But I'm happy to report, that once I had it made up, I really love it! I think it works, and the fabric belt gives it a bit of shape. And while I will probably wear it belted the most, I do think I can get away without a belt too. Which is nice for those days, where you still want to look pulled together, but you want to be comfy too.

The fabric is a beautiful rayon from LA Finch Fabrics. I just love the colours, and the weight is really lovely. It's nice and soft, but not flimsy. Do you know what I mean?

This is a size 12. When I cut out the pattern, I thought it looked quite long for me, so I shortened it by 5 inches! 5 inches! I'm so short! Then, when I finally tried it on, it was still too long, so I ended up lopping off another two inches. Which isn't easy to do with that high low hem, so it might be a little more exaggerated on my version. I kinda like it that way though.

Because this shirtdress has no cuffs, and a flat collar, it's actually a pretty quick sew. I should also mention that I thought the pattern piece included for the sleeve tab was a little skinny, so I increased the width to make it twice as wide. It's probably just personal preference, but I like my sleeve tabs wide.

Alright, another post done! Hopefully, I didn't miss any details. If I have, don't hesitate to ask!

Ta ta for now! 

Tessuti Patterns Frankie Dress: Holiday Edition

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!! I hope you all are doing well, and enjoying whatever festivities may be going on in your neck of the woods. I'm having a big dinner at my house with a whole bunch of family, and we are doing our traditional, non-traditional meal: a BBQ. We have burgers, smokies, and hotdogs, with various BBQ style sides like salads and chips. It's definitely not the regular turkey dinner, but we really like it and we always have lots of fun.

Anyway, I thought it would be nice to share my Christmas dress on Christmas day. I probably won't wear this on Christmas Day, although it's comfy enough to do so. I think I will be to nervous that I will spill something all over it. But you never know, I might end up brave enough! Ha ha! Anyway, I actually made it for John's company party, and it was lovely to wear that night.

This is the Frankie Dress by Tessuti. I have been pretty much obsessed with this pattern since I first saw it, but for some reason I was a bit reluctant to pull the trigger and buy it. I think in my mind, I was thinking it was more of a spring/summer pattern so I was holding off. 

Anyway when I saw this gorgeous stretch velvet on the Blackbird Fabrics website, I had a lightbulb moment! I thought the Frankie would make a fantastic velvet dress.

And I was right! This dress turned out exactly as I hoped it would.

I whipped up a quick muslin out of a knit that had similar stretch, and then cut into my velvet. I made a straight size medium, and shortened it by 3 inches. When I shortened it, I had a bit of truing up to do at the side seams, so I ended up making it closer to a size small from the waist down, rather than the medium.

This stretch velvet was super easy to work with. I've heard horror stories about working with velvet, but lucky for me, I didn't have any of those bad things happen. I did however have a bit of a serger issue. When I was inserting the sleeves, my serger began to "eat" my fabric and get jammed. I had a bit of a meltdown as I was sure my dress was ruined and of course I was sewing it the night before the event. Anyway, I calmed down and rushed my serger into the store that I bought it at the next morning. They assured me it was my blades. Apparently the bottom, stationary blade on my serger had become dull. It's supposed to last the life of the serger, but because I have hit some pins with it on occasion (oops!) it had dulled. The upper blade was dull as well, so once they replaced those, which was a 5 minute, but $50 job, I was back in business. Anyway, if you look closely at the back of the armscyes, especially on left, you might see a bit of wonkiness, but I really don't think anyone noticed, or will notice in the future. Phew!! Thank goodness for knits! Oh and this is also the reason it looks slightly chokey at the neckline too. My muslin did not look like that at all.

Anyway, I absolutely love this dress, and I feel so good in it. I wish I would wear it every day! I love it paired with my little black booties too. I wore full footed tights the night of the party, which in my opinion, looked better as you don't get that little pop of skin at my ankle breaking up my leg. Ha ha!

I have some more stretch velvet in my stash, so I'm dreaming up more ways to use it. Leggings perhaps?

I hope you all are having a lovely day, and I wish you lots of joy and happiness this holiday season!